I'm writing this 24 hours before reaching the dunes at Sossusvlei. World famous for spectacular systems of sand, structure and visual magnificence. Getting up at 4 30 am to drive South-East 120 km along the splinter track.
In most cases I hate getting advance notes about stuff. Reviews that aim to set (and then more often than not disappoint) expectations. A really distasteful facet of our modern Western mediocrity. Reviews on almost anything fall short - by a long shot. Movies, Restaurants, Hotels, Pizzas - almost always fiction.
I'm much more optimistic about Sossusvlei.
Nothing here in Namibia has disappointed me. This country has so much beauty in its people and its land. Its people have a difficult life of course - 53% unemployed - but they have a wonderful passion for life somehow. I am not here long enough to figure out why but it is apparent in every move and sense.
Everywhere seems neatly kept, the roads, when tarmac, are smooth and smartly maintained. The airport is one building so not much can go wrong in there. I have only seen a very small part.
24 Hours later.
Hmm.
It's not the dunes fault. They didn't ask to become a destination. The observation is that we 'Western fools' are spoiled of course. We expect cable cars and neatly decked vantage points with easy access and HD. For Sand Dunes read Ski-Resort.
Sossusvlei is amazing but mostly because it is a journey not a place. It is not to have arrived at it. It is a road that lasts for 62 km and spears itself as far as it can go into the natural and vast desert of sand. It was 40 degrees. It has mirages, empty rivers and salt flats at the base level. Everything is in a state of death and rebirth. For every dead tree that is burned to a cinder there is a Springbok herd grazing away under a very green tree. It is certainly the oddest blend of place. Part Ramatualle, part Chamonix, part Sahara, part Richmond Park.
The mistake I made was thinking of it as a place.
PS.
Hints, tips and notes to intrepid travellers who hire 4x4 and then actually go off road.
To avoid getting stuck 62 km into a desert. Reduce the bar (pressure) in all 4 tires from 2.5 to 1.5 (possibly even 'comma' 0,8) to avoid getting stuck (like me) in soft sand. Also maintain momentum on inclines in dunes. Only stop facing downwards. Turn off energy wasting air-con. And hire a fully grown 4x4. Not a Nissan X-Trail - apparently. Also be sure to find a highly competent South African holidaying 4x4 expert/genius/super-hero close by called Herrold. He will have all the tips, pressure guages and towing equipment required to save you from certain death - in 8 minutes.
In The Midst, an Oryx and an Ostrich graze…
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